Patterning/toile.

Trousers and rucksack.

For patterning I had to use the male trouser block, I had to remove the front seam making it so it was cut on the fold, also places the back and front patterns together to remove the side seams also bagging them out to create a wider leg. I decided to measure a male mannequin and free hand my braces use the flight suit as inspiration for shape. My pockets were the easiest part to pattern as I had previously done them for river island except this time they were not sewn on my front pieces in fact I had to make a backing as they were sandwiched in the waistband. As well as having an elasticated waistband I am going to create elastic Rib for the bottoms of the trousers to draw bring them in. my trousers will be made in a heavy green cotton drill. My rucksack was sewn as a big cuboid. I wanted to create a big heavy bag that stayed a 3D shape. With the toiling process I knew that my toile would not create a stiff 3D shape as it was made from calico but when it comes to creating the real thing I will be making it from a hard plastic grid with wool weaved through it so it will stay a 3D shape at that point. I want this back pack to be a big feature within my design but I then realised that have a rucksack it would clash with my braces on the trousers, both I didn’t want to remove from my design as they both where a huge part of my research, so I decided that I had to create the rucksack but without straps. Due to having side release buckles on my pockets they could come in handy with attaching my bag I decided to use my braces as the straps for this bag by sewing one side of the buckles to the braces and the other too the back of the bag so I was able to clip the bag on without having a strap to interfere with my braces.

Jumper.

For the jumper I used a unisex causal jumper block. I took away 4cm’s from the neck line creating a wider opening to fit over the head. I then moved onto the sleeves extending the length a little and making really long cuffs. As well as having the long sleeves I decided to have 2 parallel pockets on each sleeve. This jumper will be made in a thick sweatshirt fabric.

Leave a comment